Disconnect the cables from the battery terminals with a socket wrench and remove the battery from the vehicle. Remove the air cleaner, mass air flow sensor and air inlet duct from the intake manifold.
Open the cap on the radiator, and place a drain pan below the drain plug under the intake manifold. Open the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant to drain into the pan. Replace the drain plug.
Remove the trim cover from the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the distributor cap from the vehicle with the ignition wires still attached. Detach the throttle cable from the intake manifold and disconnect the upper intake manifold from the engine block. Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Detach the coolant hoses from the engine block with a socket wrench.
Screw an 8 x 10 mm bolt into the tensioner for the accessory drive belt to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Remove the drive belt from its pulleys and unscrew the bolt from the tensioner. Disconnect the alternator and the tensioner for the accessory drive belt.
Remove the heat shield from both exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench and disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the engine. Disconnect the mounting bolt from the cover of the timing chain and remove the timing chain cover. Remove the cover from the cylinder head and turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks. Mark the timing chain with white paint to indicate its direction of rotation.
Hold each camshaft in place with a 24 mm wrench and disconnect the camshaft sprockets from the camshafts with a socket wrench. Remove the cylinder head bolts from the cylinder head and lift the cylinder head from the engine block.
Remove the cylinder head gasket from the engine block. Clean any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper. Mount the new gasket onto the engine block with the word "TOP" facing up. Place the cylinder head over the dowels on the engine block.
Fasten new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass, then tighten them to 44 foot pounds on the second pass. Tighten the bolts by 1/4 turn on the third pass, then tighten them an additional 1/4 turn on the fourth pass.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks again and lock the camshafts in place with special tool 3268. Mount the camshaft sprockets with the timing chain to the camshafts and fasten the mounting bolts for the sprockets with a 24 mm wrench. Mount the distributor drive on the camshaft and tighten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets to 74 foot pounds.
Connect the timing chain tensioner and the upper cover for the timing chain temporarily. Remove special tool 3268 from the camshafts and turn the crankshaft four complete turns clockwise. Tighten the mounting bolts for the upper timing chain cover to 82 inch pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt for the tensioner to 15 foot pounds.
Replace the cover for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds to 18 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the drive belt for the alternator belt and adjust its tension with the belt tensioner. Connect the coolant hoses to the engine block. Install the electrical connectors and fuel lines for the fuel injectors.
Install the upper intake manifold to the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect any electrical wiring and vacuum lines that you removed from the upper intake manifold. Attach the throttle cable and distributor cap assembly to the upper intake manifold. Replace the trim cover for the engine.
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Choose or create a graphic design for the T shirts with a design program. Use the professional heat transfer paper to print on. Print with color ink on an inkjet printer. Store any extra images in a box in a cool, dry place.
Cut out the images being used. Trim as close to the edges of the image as possible. To make cutting out words more accurate and professional, use a background such as a rectangle with color. Cut around the shape instead of cutting out the words individually. This will be much easier and look better.
Set the press according to the instructions for the type of material, transfer paper and machine being used. This will require three settings temperature, pressure and time for each T shirt.
Center an image on a T shirt. Using an alignment tool such as a ruler makes this easy. Folding the T shirt in half lengthwise can also help center the image. There are many different types of alignment tools. A T square will work very well at centering an image exactly in the middle of the shirt. It is also useful when centering an object over the pocket of a T shirt.
Place the image ink side down on the T shirt and place them on top of the Teflon pad in the press. Place a Teflon sheet on top of the T shirt to keep the rubber in the machine from sticking to the shirt. The Teflon tools will also keep the machine from accumulating ink and dust, and Teflon is easy to wipe clean. Lock the press and follow the manufacturer timing instructions for each individual heat press.
Open the press after it unlocks. Read the directions on the package of transfer paper to determine whether to allow the shirt and image to cool or whether to remove the transfer paper while hot. Remove the transfer paper with the T shirt still in the press. Lift the transfer paper away from the image slowly. Pull back on the transfer paper instead of up. Allow the T shirt to cool and dry for 24 hours before packaging or washing.
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The thermostat on your Volkswagen helps the engine keep operating at a predetermined temperature for best fuel economy and engine performance. However, the thermostat mechanism wears down after months of use and subsequently fails. If stuck in the closed position, the thermostat will not allow coolant to circulate, causing the engine to heat up dangerously; if stuck in the open position, the engine will never reach proper operating temperature, causing fuel consumption and poor engine performance. In either case, the thermostat must be replaced.
How to Replace a Volkswagen Thermostat
How to Change the Thermostat in a Chevy Silverado. If you notice your Chevy . . View Photos. How to Check Add Engine Oil. Watch Video.
How to Replace a Thermostat on a 2003 VW Jetta
How to Change the Thermostat in a Volkswagen 2.0 Engine; How to Replace a Jetta 1.8T Thermostat; Volkswagen Thermostat Replacement Instructions; Comments.
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Bodie Shandro is getting ready to paddle through the "channel of bones." Shandro, who lives on Heffley Lake, is working hard to prepare for the Molokai 2 Oahu Race, the unofficial world championship of stand up paddling. The race, scheduled for July 31, will be held in a 32 mile channel liking Molokai and Oahu. So treacherous is the Ka’iwi Channel that it also is known as the Channel of Bones. Shandro and Squamish’s Norm Hann will work as a team, the pair trading turns on the 14 foot board, with the non paddler riding alongside in the required support boat. Shandro figures the men would trade off after 20 or 40 minutes of paddling, but that could change depending on the size of swells and "how intense it’s going to be." You see, not only do the paddlers have to worry about fighting through fatigue and exposure and maybe a few sharks "You need shark repellant on (boat) and on body," Shandro said there also is the matter of swimming to and from the support boat in 20 to 30 foot swells. "We have some rough days on Heffley Lake," Shandro said, "but it isn’t going to compare" to the Pacific Ocean. This will be Shandro’s first try at Molokai 2 Oahu, but he competed in Hawaii last year. His goal is to complete this year’s race in six hours, and also to try it alone in a few years. "I want to do it solo when I’m 50," said the 46 year old Shandro. central coast.
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The Merlyn Morgan Graham answer manages to delete the running batch script, but it generates the following error message: "The batch file cannot be found." This is not a problem if the console window closes when the script terminates, as the message will flash by so fast that no one will see it. But the error message is very undesirable if the console remains open after script termination.
John Faminella has the right idea that another process is needed to cleanly delete the batch file without error. Scheduling a task can work, but there is a simpler way: use START to launch a new delete process within the same console. It takes time for the process to initiate and execute, so the parent script has a chance to terminate cleanly before the delete happens.
You didn’t mention the OS, but if this is on Windows XP Professional and you have the appropriate permissions, you can have the batch file schedule a one shot Windows Scheduled Task to delete the file at a later time. Use the schtasks command, documented here.
Otherwise, you typically can’t delete a file that is being executed, since that has the potential for all sorts of nastiness. Additionally, trying to delete an executable in use is viewed as very suspicious behavior by any number of antivirus programs, so it’s likely that you would run afoul of these as well.
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NHL, the NHL Shield, the word mark and image of the Stanley Cup, Center Ice name and logo, NHL Conference logos and NHL Winter Classic name are registered trademarks and Vintage Hockey word mark and logo, Live Every Shift, Hot Off the Ice, Game On, The Game Lives Where You Do, NHL Power Play, NHL Winter Classic logo, NHL Heritage Classic name and logo, NHL Stadium Series name and logo, NHL All Star Game logo, NHL Face Off name and logo, NHL GameCenter, NHL GameCenter LIVE, NHL Network name and logo, NHL Mobile name and logo, NHL Radio, NHL Awards name and logo, NHL Draft name and logo, Hockey Fights Cancer, Because It’s The Cup, The Biggest Assist Happens Off The Ice, NHL Green name and logo, NHL All Access Vancouver name and logo, NHL Auctions, NHL Ice Time, Ice Time Any Time, Ice Tracker, NHL Vault, Hockey Is For Everyone, and Questions Will Become Answers are trademarks of the National Hockey League. NHL 2015. All NHL team jerseys customized with NHL players’ names and numbers are officially licensed by the NHL and the NHLPA.
The Zamboni word mark and configuration of the Zamboni ice resurfacing machine are registered trademarks of Frank J. Zamboni Co., Inc. Frank J. Zamboni Co., Inc. 2015.
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The problem with condiments is that even if they’re theoretically intended to enhance or complement the flavors of a given dish, too often they just swamp those other flavors instead. Take, for example, ketchup, the iconic condiment: It doesn’t taste bad (and anyone who tells you it does is more interested in claiming cultural high ground than in telling the truth), so much as it tastes a lot. Vinegar and sugar and salt and tomato, all in wild abundance: You add it to anything more complex and subtly flavored than a friggin’ French fry, and all you get is the taste of ketchup, and the horror of being set upon by 9,000 enraged, shrimp fork wielding foodie nitwits hell bent upon achieving your grisly demise.
Chili oil is what it sounds like: cooking oil that has been infused with hot chili peppers. Its simplicity is mitigated reduced a bit by the precautions you have to take when handling the hotter variants of chili pepper and cleaning up after yourself when you’ve done so, but even so, you can make it in your kitchen with a hell of a lot more ease than what goes into, say, whipping up a batch of ranch friggin’ dressing, with the added benefits that, unlike ranch dressing, chili is not fucking disgusting, and its consumption will not cause your doctor to look at you as though you just walked into her office with a dirty syringe dangling out of your neck.
All have their merits and drawbacks, of course. (A), for example, can’t be beaten for ease and convenience, but leaves you with virtually no control over what variety of pepper you’re using or how fresh it is, and is just kind of a lazy, unadventurous sack of crap way to do things. (D), at the far other end, gives you the sense of pure accomplishment that comes from having ushered the project from seed to condiment entirely by yourself, and also gives you a summer without any chili oil, which sucks. Probably option (B) is the best: Your local supermarket or bodega likely stocks a good variety of dried, bagged chili peppers, which gives you room to choose your favorite, and you don’t have to devote time to growing and/or drying them, which is great because, for real, what are the odds you were gonna remember to do any of that? (Zero. The odds are zero.)
As for those peppers, you can decide for yourself which particular variety or combination to go with, from the milder jalape to the terrifying and utterly ludicrous Trinidad moruga scorpion, which, if you choose it, man oh man that is a dumb choice. Don’t go any milder than the jalape unless you’re particularly in the mood for a chili oil that makes you feel like this was a waste of time; you’re free to do as you please, but unless you’re looking to produce a cruel YouTube prank in liquid form, don’t go for anything hotter than the habanero or Scotch bonnet, either.
For aesthetic purposes, if you can, go for red or orange chili peppers: These will produce a fiery orange colored chili oil, which will look really cool and, somewhat less importantly, indicate its own piquancy for some purely hypothetical person who possesses the cerebral wherewithal to associate red orange colors with piquant heat but who is also dumb enough to consider just popping open an unlabeled bottle of oil in someone else’s kitchen and pouring some of it onto his or her tongue for some goddamn reason. (The suggestion of red or orange chili peppers doesn’t rule out using the relatively gentle jalape by the way; if you can’t find red ones either fresh or dried in your supermarket or bodega of choice, buy some fresh green ones and let ’em sit in a well lit spot for a couple of days, and they’ll probably turn red on their own.) Cayenne peppers are a great choice for this; so are serrano peppers, and red or orange habaneros.
Whether you grew your peppers and dried them, or bought them fresh and dried them, or bought them dried (but not if you just bought a canister of crushed red pepper, you great big wet blanket), at some point you’ll have dried chili peppers, and you will need to crush them. Hopefully you have access to a food processor (or, failing that, an automated spice or coffee grinder); if not, hopefully you have access to a mortar and pestle; if you don’t even have that, hopefully you live near a well adjusted person, and can take advantage of that person’s sweet and trusting nature to score for yourself a free food processor (and/or just, y’know, borrow theirs).
The important thing to know here is that the action of grinding dried chili peppers, virtually however you do it, is going to produce some oh so very noticeable quantity of piquant chili vapor. You think this is no big deal, and in the cosmic sense, sure, that is true, but just you try to explain that to your mucous membranes when they are in full revolt and your head feels like it is being dissolved by acid. Your mucous membranes do not have ears to listen. They care nothing for your "cosmic sense." They care only for making you feel bad about exposing them to aerosolized capsaicin, and, oh man, they have black belts in that shit.
The point here is that you will want to try to keep your face away from the action. If you’re crushing, say, habaneros, and you’re using a mortar and pestle, and your pride will allow you to do this, you may even want to hie thee to the drugstore for one of those neat o paper surgical masks that covers your lower face; it won’t protect your eyes, but it’ll protect your nose, and that’s worth protecting. Hell, get some latex gloves while you’re at it. Better to suffer the indignity of dressing up like an astronaut to crush some peppers than to go barehanded and then, a few hours later, go absentmindedly to scratch an itchy eye and ruin the next 12 hours of your life.
OK, so. However you did it, you did it, and now you have a bunch of crushed red pepper. Dump your crushed red pepper into a medium sized saucepot and cover it with a few cups of oil. This should be a sturdy oil with a fairly mild flavor, like canola or vegetable or some such; olive oil burns at too low a temperature and is too olive y for this. Also, if you have a choice in the matter, a stainless steel pot is best for this. The light, neutral color of the metal will allow you to keep track of the color of your oil and of the crushed red pepper it contains, both of which can tell you things about the doneness of your chili oil.
This will take a few minutes, but stay close by and keep an eye on things. (If you’re using intensely hot peppers for this, try not to take any deep breaths directly over the pot, which may emit some capsaicin vapors once its contents get hot.) Give the pot’s contents a few slow, gentle stirs with a wooden spoon as time goes by, and keep the heat pretty low. As the oil warms up, it will begin to take on the fiery red orange color from a few paragraphs ago; the important thing is not to let the crushed pepper burn in the oil, or it will impart a nasty, bitter, burned taste to the finished product. If things get too hot, the oil will turn brown or the flakes of crushed red pepper will begin turning black, and that’ll be the indicator that you ruined your chili oil before you even finished making it. Be patient, and keep the heat low.
If you’d like to preserve it for later use, though, you’re going to have to strain and bottle your chili oil. For this you’ll need some kind of fine metal sieve with a layer or two of cheesecloth laid over it, a funnel, a lidded or corked glass bottle (or bottles), and a dishwasher. You’ll position the cheesecloth lined sieve over the funnel, and the funnel over the open top of the glass bottle(s), and you’ll pour the still hot oil carefully through this setup so that it winds up captured in the bottle and not, say, melting your shoe. Screw a lid onto the bottle or cram a cork in there. The sieve and cheesecloth will remove most of the particulate matter (including the solid remains of the crushed red pepper) from the oil; the dishwasher comes into all this earlier, when you ran the sieve, funnel, and bottle through it on its hottest setting, to get them as close to sterilized as you can manage. These will help your chili oil last longer, which is only a hypothetical concern, since you’re going to use it up very quickly.
So now you’ve got some fiery orange chili oil, and it looks mean and smells great and oh god no don’t drink it noooooo what will you put it on? Eventually, everything. But, for now, scatter a few drops of it on a slice of pizza. Add half a teaspoon of it to the oil in a pan or pot or wok before you saut sear, or stir fry in it; drip a bit more onto whatever you saut or seared or stir fried in there once it’s on the plate. Whisk it into a homemade salad dressing. Serve oysters on the half shell and garnish each one with a squeeze of citrus and a single angry drop of chili oil. Add some to the dipping sauce for a batch of steamed dumplings. Drizzle some into a big bowl of soup broth and let the steam taunt your nose. Sprinkle some gorgeous, glistening droplets of it around the perimeter of any old plate of dinner, to dare yourself to dredge bites through it on their way to your mouth.
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